


The Jil Sander summer/spring 2011 collection by Raf Simons marks a successful attempt to transcribe the appearance of minimal art into fashion. Unveiling odd shapes out of simple geometric volumes that cover the whole figur from the base of the neck down to the ankles, he simultaneously traces the outline of the human body within these primary structures and uncovers all the various qualities of textiles as there are flowing and bagging folds, flatt, matt, textured to shiny surfaces, soft or crisp, in vivid and significant shades of color. By keeping the overall composition irreducible, he manages to carry over explicit accessories--like mirrored sunglasses or a red plastic bag--into a state of literal abstraction.
This venture does not stand alone as he repeatedly had appropriated distinctive aesthetic concepts of painters as Mark Rothko, Ellsworth Kelly or Anselm Reyle into past collections of his own fashion house.
"There was a lot of debate about this so-called new minimalism," says creative director Raf Simons about his summer/spring 2011 collection for Jil Sander "the idea of couture, for me, is the uniqueness, and the uniqueness here is the color." [...] The extreme shades were achieved by using low-brow fabrics like polyester and nylon blends (silk alone would never have held that lightning-bolt purple and magenta), but the oversize, simple shapes fell with classic grace.